Ball python how long to shed

Additionally, his coloration will normally appear very bright and bold. But perfect health and ideal husbandry conditions are exceptions and not the rule.

This means that snakes occasionally experience problematic sheds in captivity. This includes the three steps detailed below:. Proper hydration is crucial for problem-free sheds. You can address this in part by simply making drinking water available at all times, but it is often helpful to increase the overall humidity in the habitat during shed cycles too.

However, it is often easier and more effective to mist the enclosure with a spray bottle full of room-temperature water. Spray down the substrate, habitat furniture and the enclosure walls. This can make the snake more likely to have a bad shed. Additionally, the same thing can happen if you feed your pet an unusually large meal. A healthy ball python can skip a meal or two without suffering any ill effects. As mentioned earlier, snakes are often quite defensive during shed cycles.

This is thought to be partially due to the fact that they may become temporarily blind during the process when their eyes are blue. From time to time, ball pythons may experience problems during the shedding process. A few of the most common issues that may arise are discussed below. One of the most common shedding problems ball pythons experience occurs when they shed incompletely. However, the other portion of the skin will remain attached to the snake.

Often, the snake will simply get rid of the retained skin during his next shed cycle. However, it is typically wise to try to remove the retained skin when possible, to help reduce the likelihood of infections or other skin problems from occurring. In some cases, retained eye caps can cause infections to set in and ultimately lead to the loss of vision. Nevertheless, you should never attempt to remove a retained eye cap manually. Instead, you can try some of the gentle soaking techniques discussed below.

Bad sheds can occasionally cause a snake to retain the skin wrapped around the tip of his tail. This can lead to infections and the loss of the tail tip, if not properly addressed. Skin occasionally sticks around these areas during poor shed cycles. Because this skin may remain connected to the delicate tissues inside the vent, great care is required when trying to remove it.

Typically, it is wisest to use the soaking techniques described below and allow the snake to work the retained skin free himself. This will often soften any retained skin, allowing it to slip free easily, and it will also ensure your snake is well-hydrated. Drill a few ventilation holes in the lid to allow air exchange, and then pour a small amount of room-temperature water in the box. Do not add so much water that your snake is forced to swim or struggle to keep his head above water.

You want him to be able to lay comfortably and simply relax in the water. Of course a young, growing python will shed more often than an adult will, and the season can affect the shedding schedule.

A python who is eating regularly and living in a warm environment sheds about every four to six weeks. In the wild, a python who hibernates or is less active in the colder months will shed only about once during the winter. The ball python gives fair warning when he's ready to shed. About a week before he's ready to get rid of his old skin, his colors will fade and his stomach will look pink, instead of its normal creamy color. He'll take on a dull grayish or silvery sheen and his eyes will begin to dull as well.

They will take on a blue, milky appearance for a few days; about 36 hours before he molts his eyes will become clear again. When it's time to molt, the ball python will begin to rub back his old skin, starting with his nose. He'll press himself against whatever furnishings are in his cage to help the shedding process.

Usually the old skin will catch on something and he'll slither out of it, leaving his old self behind. You can discard his old skin when he's finished. When he's finished shedding, examine him to ensure all his old skin has been removed, paying special attention to the tip of his tail and eye caps. They can excrete urates a few times a week to once every six weeks. In many cases, they will also expel some liquid urine with the urates.

Skin or scales are cracked and crusty. Raised or swollen scales. Red, brown, or otherwise dark discolored skin, especially near the tail or on the abdomen. Loss of appetite. Typically, your ball python should poop about 1 week after eating a meal.

This answer is not the same for all snakes as different environments, temperatures, and foods can cause digestion to take longer in some cases. Ball pythons are native to Central and West Africa, they are used to high heat and humidity levels.

Remember to always use warm water and move slowly. Let your pet swim around for 10 to 15 minutes before drying them off. To keep up with their growth hatchlings need to eat a lot. This is also the time when you should make sure their feeding response is strong and that they are able to strike at prey accurately.

Overfeeding hatchling ball pythons is not an issue because of their extremely high metabolisms. There are many problems that can contribute to shedding problems or incomplete sheds, but the most common problem in inadequate humidity levels.

Other factors include skin infections, injuries to the skin including old scars , parasites, malnutrition, and inadequate heating or lighting. Give your snake some space.